The easiest big trip you will take with kids.

What works, by age of event

Illuminations are the perfect family evening: outdoors, free or nearly, spectacular at stroller height, and over by bedtime if you go at dusk. Snow festivals are playgrounds at city scale in Sapporo and a dozen smaller towns. Fireworks start at dusk in summer and come with food stalls and a picnic crowd; take the early train home before the rush. The big daytime matsuri are loud, dense and wonderful with older children; with toddlers, watch the procession routes from a side street rather than the main crush.

The logistics that help

Stations have lifts, wide gates for strollers and staffed counters that solve problems; convenience stores stock nappies, wipes, milk and hot snacks at all hours; department store basements will feed a picky child from six cuisines at once. Children under six ride trains free, and six to eleven year olds pay half, which takes the sting out of family rail days. Forward the suitcases hotel to hotel and travel with the daypack: it is the single best upgrade to a family itinerary.